Off-Center Views: The Mystery of Mystic

No, this is not a ghost story. Last year I posted a short blog on Mystic, Connecticut, after a quick stop for lunch at Mystic Pizza. That you may recall was the site of a 1988 Roberts film that propelled her to fame. I vowed to return to Mystic when I had time.

Recently I did so. I also posted a blog on the negative changes at Mystic Seaport that place it fully in the Not-Worth-the-Money category. So, the open question now is whether one should bother to visit Mystic at all. Short answer: Yes, if you're in the area and have other things to do to occupy the half a day you'll have left.

I say half a day, because Mystic’s other big tourist roll is its aquarium. It's perfectly OK, but it too is overpriced. Depending on the time of day it will set you back between $35-39 and is pricey for an experience that will only take you about 90 minutes. To put it in perspective, the admission charge is the same as the National Aquarium in Baltimore, and there is simply no comparison between the two. You can also make your way to Boston for a better watery experience at the New England Aquarium for a third of the price.

What's left to commend Mystic? First, it's a charming setting in a good place to stroll about. Because of tourists, there were more shops than you would expect for a village of just 4,249 people. I wouldn't call the offerings unique, but browsing is in order and you might find a treasure or two.

Not the Seaport, but it's just up around the bend to the left

Second, the Mystic River has its charms. The walks along its banks on either side of the Bridge off Water Street are short, but give you a sufficiently nautical salt water-mixed-with-fresh taste and you can fortify yourself with ice cream of other treats. On one side of the bridge, you can actually stroll around the inlet to the gated edge of Mystic Seaport, spy a few wooden boats, and keep your Andrew Jacksons safely tucked into your wallet.

Speaking of the bridge–officially known as the Mystic River Bascule Bridge–it's a free cheap thrill to watch it open (every 40 minutes after the hour). It has massive concrete counterweights that rise and lower is if a giant ogre was about the club or someone. Walker' line up behind a trestle to gawk and the whole thing is a much bigger thrill than one might imagine.

IMHO, though, Mystic’s three big drawls are pizza, Sift Bake Shop, and the Mystic Art Museum. Mystic Pizza, as I previously wrote, is a bit of a fiction, but the ‘za is good. Other pizzerias around town rival it if the wait is too long. In fact, I'd recommend Sift as a better place for lunch. The place is a treat for the eyes as well as the tummy with pastries and sandwiches that are almost too spectacular to eat. One caution: Their giant croissants look better than they are. Stay clear of anything other than plain or chocolate. But the brownies… Oh my! My muffuletta was also superb.

I like small institutions, and the middle of town Mystic Art Association Museum is also a rare thing in town that's free. Check it out. You may not know most of the artists, but in the 1920s/30s Mystic had a vibrant art colony. Below find some of the artists and works I liked. There are more, so feel free to let me know your favorites.