Give Dublin a Chance To Be Sure, To Be Sure

This piece launches a new-for-me concept. Instead of a conventional travelogue I thought I’d add a new “Adventures With Rob” tab on the blog with short remarks designed to direct you to Facebook to see images the next day.

 

Dublin is the first post. We stopped in Dublin on our way to France because there are no direct flights to Bordeaux and we’d consider flying to Lapland if it meant avoiding the nightmare of changing planes at Heathrow. Travel tip: Never go to Heathrow unless London is your final destination.

 

Why Dublin?

 

1. Aer Lingus has a direct flight of about 5 ½ hours from Bradley Airport (Windsor Locks, CT). It lands at a stupid early time (around 4:30 am Irish time), but there are airport cafes where you can caffeinate. Some have comfy sofas where you can take turns catnapping.

 

2. I hadn’t been there in about 20 years and it has come up in the world.  

 

3. Its free archaeological museum is pure gold. Literally! It takes you from the days of slab dwellings and thatched huts to the present. There are stunning displays of gold jewelry and artifacts dug from bogs (mostly in the 20^th century). Although it’s not as rich, the National Art Museum is also free and has unique finds.

 

4. There’s plenty to entertain you in two days whilst you recover from jet lag and go on to your next destination.

 

5. Transport from and to the airport by bus is cheap and easy. Get off or on in the city center near Trinity College.

 

6. There is no need to spend a fortune on special tours or Hop On/Hop Off buses. Dublin is very walkable. If you cross the Ha’Penny Bridge over the Liffey River you can walk the whole way to the Calatrava Harp Bridge (officially the Samuel Beckett Bridge) in about 30 minutes. On your way you’ll see the Famine Memorial and a docked tall ship, the Jeanie Johnston.

 

7. Forget what tourist sites tell you, there are tons of pubs where you can catch “sessions” of traditional Irish music. By all means avoid places advertised as Irish “shows.” They are about as “Irish” as a stuffed leprechaun or a fiddler playing a hoedown.

 

Downsides?

 

1. Irish food still sucks with the exception of its excellent tea scones. Try Keough’s, which now surpasses Bewley’s. There are loads of ethnic restaurants in Dublin these days, so you won’t be forced to eat colcannon. Only barefoot, muddy peasants think creamed mashed potatoes and cabbage is dinner and, if you’re really unlucky, some places use kale instead of cabbage. That’s called adding insult to injury.

 

2. Don’t be suckered into drinking Guiness in a pub. It’s better than the swill imported to the States, but both are akin to having a glass of polluted water. Go to “free houses” not beholden to any single brand. Irish barkeeps are very friendly. Tell them what you like and ask for recommendations. You can also forego brewery factory tours. If you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all.

 

3. Be careful in the Temple Bar area at night. You’ll be safe enough, but dodgy characters come out when the sun goes down. Pickpockets prey upon distracted rubberneckers. It’s a lively and crowded area, so be aware.

 

4. It costs 25 euros to see the Book of Kells, an outrageous sum given that most of the books have been taken from the library. The library is magnificent when its shelves are full, but even then you only see a few Book of Kells pages. Wait until you get home and buy a volume with crisp color plates of the entire Book of Kells. You can also see illuminated manuscripts in the archaeology museum for free.

 

5. Even devotees of Jameson’s Whiskey will tell you that if your travels are taking you to Scotland, that’s where the real whisky—the only one allowed to be spelled that way–should be sampled. I had a funny conversation with an Irish museum guard who practically cried when I told him I could buy Scottish Lagavulin in the States for well under the equivalent of 150 euros!