Sarlat-la-Canéda

Duck Dinner in Sarlat. Wine not pictured!

If you visit the southern section of the Dordogne–aka/ the Périgord or southern Aquitaine–chances are good you will end up staying at Sarlat-la-Canéda, not because it’s the most beautiful village–though it is very lovely–or the largest, but simply because it is an excellent base for exploring nearby sites of interest to tourists foreign and French. As such, it has more places to stay, numerous restaurants, and shops to cater to visitors. The town of Périgueux has nearly 30,000 residents but it takes 50 minutes to get to Lascaux from there, but less than a half hour from Sarlat. As realtors would put it, it's all about location, location, location.

 

A word on French jurisdictions. France is divided into regions, départments with an administrative prefecture, and communes (municipalities). The Dordogne is located in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region whose capitol is Bordeaux, is comparable to a U.S. state.  Périgueux départment prefecture (sort of like a county seat ) is one of five in the region, and greater Sarlat is the commune town for Périgord Nord (north). You’ll find Canéda on maps, but that small village has pretty much been absorbed by Sarlat.

 

Sarlat is relatively small–around 8,800 people–but its history dates back to at least the 9^th century when a Benedictine abbey was built there. Like many places in the area its golden stone construction has its roots in the Middle Ages. For such a small place it has 77 protected monuments, the latter term with a broader meaning than a single statue or memorial. Buildings, gardens, bridges, and entire sections of a town can be designated as a protected monument, as indeed can anything else deemed of historical value or important to French heritage and culture. Sarlat’s level of preservation has made it attractive to film directors such as Luc Besson, Peter Hyams, and Ridley Scott.

 

Sarlat is also visited because of its production of foie gras, pâté, duck confit, walnut concoctions, wine, cheese, and truffles. I’m not a fan of duck liver (or any other kind), but I can recommend all things walnut, the cheese, the wine, and the atmosphere. Market days are a big deal in Sarlat with its main square ( Place la Liberté) crowded with stalls, umbrellas, and people. Other protected monuments of note include the home of poet/humanist Étienne de La Boétie, Gisson mansion, the Place du Peyru, the cathedral, the bishop’s palace, and the Lantern of the Dead. Overall, Sarlat is a great place to hang out and soak up the atmosphere: cobblestone streets, unique facades, food, and great wine.

 

Note: My Facebook page will have more pictures of Sarlat tomorrow.

 

Rob Weir