The Ugly American, a 1958 novel,
coined a stereotype of U.S. travelers
whose arrogance raised hackles
abroad. These days, pushy
Germans, selfie-taking Japanese travelers, and Italians who mob instead of queuing have supplanted the Ugly American. Don’t revive him.
At the end of April, agit-prop artist Banksy struck again. The above statue arose overnight in London’s Waterloo Square. You don’t need a course in semiotics to read Banksy’s implied dig at Donald Trump and other autocrats. Note that the figure is blinded by the flag he waves and is about to step off into the void. You’re probably right to connect the gilded statue of Athena with Trump’s garish ballroom project that looks as if Croesus puked gold on the East Wing. Make what you will of the scaffolding!
I hope you’ve noticed that Off-Center Views has been silent the past few weeks. I’ve been in England, where Trumpism gets a cold reception. Even though the hard right threatens Europe–Le Pen in France, skinheads in Germany, the Reform Party in England, and anti-immigrant sentiment across the continent–Trump’s aggressive American triumphalism is lampooned. (We even have our own Arc de Triomphe set to be built!) As I saw it, America was largely ignored other than the sentiment that King Charles played Trump like a cheap accordion.
Oddly, though, Canadians and Europeans are often kind to American visitors. You probably won’t like the reason; they feel sorry for us. Once we were the envy of the world, but that ship has sailed. There are myriad reasons not to act like an Ugly American abroad, not the least of which is leaving home can make you feel more like a pauper than the pop stars among the top 10% who hold more than two-thirds America’s wealth.
Park your preconceptions. Do you believe that the USA has the world’s highest standard of living? Not even close! We’re not in the same boat as the poorest of the globe’s 193 nations, but depending upon which index you consult, America is either #17 or as low as #23. Both Canada and Great Britain rank above us. Foreign leaders seek calm relations with America mostly because of our nuclear arsenal and the international reach of capitalism, not envy.
The U.S. gets low marks for health care, life expectancy, education, infrastructure, public safety, and environmental action. The contrast is visible when visiting Western Europe, Japan, Scandinavia, and parts of Canada and China. (Switzerland, The Netherlands, and Denmark tend to flip flop as # 1.) I’ve yet to visit Denmark or Japan, but I have traveled to the rest and the list seems fairly accurate. If you’re looking for Utopia, pick up a fantasy novel; higher-ranked nations have their struggles as well. It is nonetheless sobering to realize that contemporary America seems a lot like post-Colonial Britain. One thing every American should do when traveling is shut up, listen, and learn.
For instance, many (if not most) Europeans are comfortable with socialism. Capitalism is an economic system, not a form of government. You’ve probably heard socialism as a swear word. It’s actually a spectrum of political practices; democratic socialism seeks to balance common social needs and pursuit of personal gain. Don’t confuse it with authoritarian socialism (like communism).
Be polite: Don’t congregate in the middle of busy sidewalks or the exits of stores and transit stations. Take photos, but step away from foot traffic to do so. Do not hold cellphone conversations in inappropriate places and silence them anywhere that would interrupt decorum. Notice how food is consumed. Brits, for example, use knives and forks quite differently.
Respect local customs: Do some homework before you arrive, like learning the metric system! Making fun of nations that drive on the left isn’t going to get them to change. Likewise, you should walk or stand on the left unless signs indicate otherwise (like on escalators). If you rent a car in New Zealand and stop at a red light, you invite wrath if you take off as soon as the light changes. Local custom holds that vehicles with difficult cross-traffic turns have priority. If you visit a mosque or temple, remove your shoes and women should cover their heads with a scarf. Buddhists ask for quiet, shoes, hats, and sunglasses removal. Be quiet and never point the soles of your feet at a monk, altar, or statue of Buddah. Always wear modest clothing in religious buildings, including cathedrals. No shorts of dresses shorter than shorts!
Have fun but know the rules: Don’t dream of using drugs in the 33 nations that carry a potential death sentence for drug busts. At best, violators get lengthy jail sentences. Brittney Griner got 9 years for having a vape pen in Russia. She got home in a spy/prisoner exchange after 10 months. You’re not a WNBA star; you’ll fare even worse! In Malaysia, public spitting could cost you $1,000. In some places, graffiti, drinking alcohol, theft, or overstaying your visa could result in a public caning. (A handful of Americans have endured that.)
It’s not America: LGBTQ+ are hot-button issues in the U.S. but in some places they are very illegal–most of Africa for starters–so avoid public displays of affection and use restrooms that won’t raise alarms. It all boils down to “when in Rome (or London, or Nairobi, or…) do as the locals do.”
Be cognizant of political realities: Until you personally break the ice, expect anti-Americanism. I usually carry something with visible emblems of New Zealand, Switzerland or Scotland. Diehard nationalists would deride me for this, but who needs uninvited hassles? Until you know people, you don’t know what their attitudes are. Don’t be like the loud-mouthed Texan I encountered in New Zealand who vehemently expressed his disbelief in global warning. It didn’t play well in a nation with a giant hole in the ozone layer over the South Island. When I was a Fulbright scholar our pre-departure training included a reminder that we were de facto American ambassadors. The same is true of U.S. tourists.
Rob Weir
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